PROJECT 02: PATTERN MAKER MAKING
Week 5 (29/09/2022) - Week 9 (27/10/2022)
Faith Aimee Choong Jia Yi / 0345509
Introduction to Pattern Technology [DST64004]
Project 02: Pattern Maker Making
LECTURE [05/10]
Mr Riza briefed to us mainly about what the second project will be about which is to make the prototype of one of our designs for Body Image & Positivity.
But before constructing the garment on Modaris, we have to create a technical drawing on our chosen design for this assignment.
PROJECT 02:
To take what we've learned using Modaris and Diamino to making our actual pattern layout for Body Image & Positivity collection design. After making our pattern layout we have to sew our garment using Calico fabric as a prototype.
PROCESS:
For this assignment, I chose to do this design.
In my Fashion Project 2 module, I have already consulted with Mr JR to choose one of my designs from the design developments I've made for Look 1 & 2. I chose this design and made it into a technical drawing. In total this piece has 3 separate garment pieces.
There will be three separate pieces. One is the basic top with one sided-sleeve which will be the base for my fabric manipulation whilst the other piece is an asymmetrical design that is a jacket like with fastenings that relates to my experimentation (of pulling and stretching of the skin), and lastly is an A-line pants cutting.
Before starting to manipulation the pattern on Modaris, Mr Riza consulted with me on my design. He advised me to make the top and asymmetrical outer piece as one piece. So that it will look complete.
In the making process, the top and outer piece will be made separately and after done, it will be combined together. And lastly paired with the A-lilne pants. He also advised for the sleeves on the asymmetrical outer piece to have zippers in between the sleeve cutting so that the user can choose to open or close the sleeve. For the opening, it will be on the side of the collar and the buckle on the waist.
Mr Riza told me to use the bodice and sleeve master pattern block.
Using the bodice block, I used the 'Sym2 PTS' to make the bodice block as one for front and back. Mr Riza said the front bodice should have a waist dart except that it won't be sewn. I expand the neckline a little to have that boat neck and also the armhole to have more space as the design showed that the piece is quite baggy at the arm depth. After constructing my outer and inner top piece, I moved on to the sleeves for the asymmetrical oute piece. I cut the sleeve at the elbow point and expanded the extra cm made on the bodice.
After that using the Piece 'Seam' tool to cut out each piece for the design.
I added the grainlines and notches.
Next I move onto the pants and top sleeve. I adjusted the pants hemline, to make it almost fitted to the ankle so I reduce the hemline at the sides. For the waistband, I used the 'Sym2 PTS' to make the pattern complete. As for the sleeves, I just expanded the armhole depth and also narrowed the sleeves making it fited to the elbow.
Lastly is the stand collar. In my design, the collar looks similar to a turtleneck except that its a little firm. Mr Riza give a handbook which is about all the different types of pattern for collar, sleev, bodice and etc. I followed the one on 'Standing Collar'. I measured the neckline measurement and half it and followed the instructions in the handbook. Once it's completed I used the 'Sym2 PTS' to make the collar a whole at the CB line.
Now its time to do the variant so that it can be imported to Maker Manager.
After doing the variant, we have to transfer it to Diamino, which is Marker Manager to set up the PLX file and Marker Maker to organize the pattern pieces. And lastly use JustPrint to import our pattern pieces to the digital printer.
I cut out each pattern panel. For the inner base, top and bottoms, I started sewing them on the actual fabric.
For the top, I used cotton lycra whilst the bottom will use a cotton drill as the wrapping manipulation will be added onto the pants, asymmetrically.
I sew the pieces together, like the front and back bodice, the flap, and the skirt.
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| Flap |
I added the zipper on the sleeve. The sleeve can be attachable and detachable.
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| Zipper on Sleeve |
Mr Riza advised me to add the lining for the top base whilst the skirt lining is using the same fabric as the outer.
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| Side [Lining] |
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| Front [Lining] |
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| Back [Lining] |
Lastly is to add the strap around the waist. I asked for Mr Riza's help on how to do the belt strap. I needed to add two straps, one back, and one front. the back strap holds the metal buckle in place whilst the front strap adjusts the tightness.
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| Final Outcome of Belt |
Here is the completed garment. I paired the top with the outer piece to see the outcome of it.
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| Front |
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| Side |
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| Back |
After completing my prototype, without the opening and fastening, Mr JR gave me a few comments about my garment piece.
FEEDBACK
By: Mr JR
"The skirt extends longer because it looks quite short. For the bodice, front and back, make it longer so that it aligns with the collar. For the flap, add both to both front and back."
Mr JR told me to make changes to the master pattern block instead of changing my prototype all over again.
For the collar opening, I plan to put those clip/snap buttons.
SUBMISSION MODARIS FILE
*Unfortunately some of the working files have gone missing*
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