PROJECT 01: EXPERIMENTAL TOP

September 16, 2022

PROJECT 01: EXPERIMENTAL TOP

Week 1 (30/08/2022) - Week 5 (27/09/2022)

Faith Aimee Choong Jia Yi / 0345509

Innovative Pattern Drafting Project [DST63804]

Project 01: Experimental Top

LECTURE [30/08]

In today's lecture, Mr Riza briefed our first assignment. He demonstrates how to deconstruct an existing top using the draping and pattern drafting method as well as teaching us how to analyze the seam lines, detailing, cutting and etc.

PROJECT 01

To produce an experimental top garment based on an existing garment design. This task will help us to understand the construction of a garment and translate it using a combination of draping and pattern drafting techniques.

PROCESS

This is the front and back view of the existing top that we are supposed to construct.

Front

Back

We started off by drape-taping the whole mannequin according to the construction of the top.

Side

Front

Back

After constructing the lines, we moved on to draping the actual top (section-by-section).

Back

Front

Side

Next, we had to do the sleeve. Instead of a regular sleeve pattern following from the master pattern block [sleeve], the sleeve is parted into two, a two-piece sleeve pattern. Followed our sleeve pattern and later made the two sharp ends for the back and front pieces, to create our two-piece sleeve.

In the next lesson, Mr Riza taught us how to curve the sleeve and create the collar. We had to do the slash method to create that curve dent.

Curve sleeves

Next up, is the collar. Firstly we created the collar in the front, which is triangular in shape. Later on, we did the stand-up collar.

Stand-up collar

Front collar

Once all the pieces are completed, Mr Riza asked us to take out the piece from the mannequin and trace the pattern.

After tracing the pattern using the rulers for accuracy, we had to scan the pattern so that it forms in Modaris.

In the Modaris software, we had to put the seam allowances around the pattern piece as well as do the variant (number of pieces to produce). Once that was done, we had to go to Marker Manager to draft the pieces on the paper (depending on the width of the fabric and spacing between each pattern). Marker Making is where we lay out the pattern pieces. JustPrint is where we plot our work so that we are able to print them.

I printed my pattern pieces using a digital printer.

Outcome of Digital Print

Next we had to cut the pieces out one by one.

After cutting the pieces individually, we can now lay them on the actual fabric and cut the pattern pieces on there.

Now we have to assemble the base by connecting all the pieces together and sewing any dart.

The entire top needed interfacing, except for the sleeves. I cut the interfacing for each panel without seam allowance and iron each of the interfacing pieces onto the base wrong side.

Next is to attach the sleeves to the bodice.

Before sewing the lining to cover the inner, I had to add the pocket detailing. The entire pocket lining is 16 x 30cm. We had to add interfacing to the lining by 16 x 10cm. I ironed the interfacing onto the pocket lining. I also added the pocket flap as well to give it that clean finish.

The pocket detail is a welt pocket. The two parallel lines have to first be sewn onto the right side of the blazer. Then the center line is snipped along with the diagonal lines (side). Turn the pocket inside so that the lining is inside the blazer. Fold the access fabric on each side, half each making the welting detail. Once that's done, attach the pocket flap underneath the top flap, sewing it inside. To secure the whole welt, sew a rectangle around the welt. To finish up, sew the sides and the top of the pocket bag so that it forms the pocket detailing.

Now is the lining, to close the blazer. Since the front bodice has a collar detailing that needs to fold showing the inner, the front bodice lining is using the base fabric.

Sew all the lining panels together so that later it can be attached to the base.

When attaching the lining to the base, ensure that there is a stay stitch so that the fabric stays inside. However, for the collar detail on the front, the stay stitch is on the outer layer of the fabric because the fabric is going to be folded on the outer.

Lastly is the collar, I cut the pattern on the base fabric and sew the top and sides together first. There needs to be interfacing inside the collar.