FINAL PROJECT: ZERO WASTE FASHION

July 04, 2022

FINAL PROJECT: ZERO WASTE FASHION

Week 9 (25/05/2022) - Week 14 (29/06/2022)

Faith Aimee Choong Jia Yi / 0345509

Garment Draping [DST64204]

Final Project: Zero Waste Fashion

LECTURE

*No lecture, continue with Zero Waste collection garment-making.*

FINAL PROJECT

Using the skills in assignment 2, students are to create their exploration into a Zero Waste Fashion actual garment. They are required to produce three outfits. Shall explore techniques from marking, fabric pinning and positioning, and draping using the dress form.

LOOK 1

PROCESS

Previously in ShopMayamode, I submitted two design pieces from my chosen three designs.

Design #2 [Top Piece]

Design #9 [Top Piece]

The Design #2 top piece was chosen as one of ShopMayamode's top 11 finalists. We had to prepare one full look garment piece for the photoshoot on the 13th of June, Monday. I decided to do the Design #9 design as my photoshoot piece because the top design has already been made.

In the Garment Draping module, I have made Design #9 bottom prototype which will later match the top design. All I have to do is to change the material into the actual fabric. After purchasing the fabric, I followed the pattern pieces from my Garment Draping module.

Design #9 Bottom Prototype

FEEDBACK

By: Mr Riza

"From your prototype design, the waistband is supposedly to have interfacing. You could add a waistband facing for the entire waist so that it gives a nice neat finishing."

Mr Riza consulted with me before I started cutting out my bottom pattern pieces. I had to add a waistband facing to the waist of the pants while also sewing the waistband together. Mr Riza told me to add jacket interfacing for the facing and waistband. I also decided to add interfacing into the ankle cuffs as well to give it a structured shape.

Design #9 Bottom [Cut-Out Pieces]

Before combining the pants pattern together, I did an overlock finishing on the edges so that it has a cleaner presentation on the inside. I assembled the pants together before adding the extra pieces like the waistband, facing and ankle cuffs.

I ironed the interfacing onto the waist facing, waistband and ankle cuffs. I sewed the pants together. And tested the fitting onto the model.

Lastly, I attached the waistband to the back of the pants and sew the ankle cuffs as well. After putting all of the extra parts together, I paired the pants with the top to see the entire look.

FEEDBACK

By: Ms Maria

"Try tucking in the top for the front so that the pant's ruffle can be seen."

Back

Front

Side

FEEDBACK

By: MrJR

"I don't really favor the ankle cuffs. Instead of putting snapper buttons on the waistband connect the ankle cuffs to the waistband so that it is longer and can be tied."

I did as Mr JR said and proceed to making the waistband longer.

FEEDBACK

By: MrJR

"Putting the hats in white makes the hat stand out more than the design since your color palette is mostly grey tones."

Since we have a photoshoot on Thursday, 23 June 2022, we had to include our accessories too. Following Mr JR's feedback, I spray paint the hats black and added a headband so that the hat is more stable on the model when walking.

Coloring Hat

Attach Headband

I also added black ribbons on the inside. I measured 26cm including seam allowance for the hat. I fold the seam allowance inside and hand-sew so that it is secure.

LOOK 2

After completing look 1, I moved on to look 2 which is womenswear. Design #2 top piece, was created for ShopMayamode and also for my look 2 top.

Top Design #2

I decided to start on the pleated skirt because it takes some time to fold and sew the pleats. Before starting on the actual fabric, I decided to experiment and make the pattern for the pleated skirt because I couldn't determine the size of the skirt. I did the prototype on Calico fabric.

Pleating Progress

After finishing the pleats, I place the skirt onto the mannequin so that I can mark the measurements for the sides, waist, and hemline.

Fitting of Pleated Skirt

After draping the pattern, I traced the pattern on the actual fabric. I redid the pleats again but this time I sewed them together.

Transfer Prototype Pattern to Actual Fabric

FEEDBACK

By: Mr Riza

"I recommend leaving the sides open like a slit at knee-length so that the model's legs can be seen."

After doing the pleated skirt, I also did a prototype for the ruffle skirt on Calico fabric. I also wanted to test the sequence of the ruffles so that it has a flow rather than it being all over the place. I also made two pieces for the skirt, below was the ruffles technique whilst the top is just plain and fitted to the waist and hip.

Prototype of Ruffled Skirt

After the prototype stage, I combine the two pieces together as one and cut one piece from the actual fabric. I proceed to make the ruffle texture by creating holes in them and pulling the fabrics so that it makes that structural shape.

FEEDBACK

By: Ms Maria

"The material you have at hand is quite soft, try and mimic the ruffles as best as you can because as the material is soft, it's hard to get that structural shape."

I used black yarn, which I had at home, to be the string that will pull the fabrics together to form the ruffles. I chose black because it camouflages slightly with the grey tone.

Day 1: Ruffle Texture

Day Something: Ruffle Texture

I took quite some time to do these ruffles as they are manually made. For the finishing, I made a waistband to be attached to the waist so that the skirt is fitted. I also added a zipper at the side [right] and a buckle for a neat finishing.

LOOK 3

I moved on to the last design which is the kimono dress. I immediately did the pattern on the actual fabric because I had limited time and also the pattern was already shown on the mahjong paper when I drape the piece in my last assignment.

Mr JR strongly advised me to get jacket interfacing as it will make my design more structured. I measured the interfacing without any seam allowance added to it.

Adding Interfacing

After putting the interfacing, I need lining to cover up the interfacing. Mr JR recommend me to get habotae lining but they didn't have it in 58-60" wide. So I asked for Mr Riza's advice and he told me to get satin fabric but the thin one. I couldn't find the thin lining so only the regular satin fabric was available as it was 60".

I cut the lining according to the pattern however putting the seam allowance as 1cm. I cut the lining out and place the pattern on top to measure it, putting all of the necessary notches and seam allowance.

After cutting the pattern out. After cutting all the pieces out, I wanted to see how the Zero Waste pattern looks on the dummy.

Back

Front

I cut the opening for the head a little too loose as the dress was falling from the sides. I decided to add pleats at the front to make it fit in the bust area. I also did darts or pleats at the back to secure the back. I realize that it was still quite loose, so I decided to add a belt under the bust so that it looks secure and the skirt will be flowy.

Once I've adjusted all the open seams, darts/pleats, and openings, I sew all those included to the actual garment and lining.