Week 9 (20/09/2021) - Week 14 (24/11/2021)
Faith Aimee Choong Jia Yi / 0345509
Introduction to Pattern Drafting & Garment Making [DST63504]
Final Project: Essential Fashion
FINAL PROJECT
We are to create an Essential Fashion capsule collection that consists of 15 different looks according to our chosen theme. From the 15 looks, we have to pick 4 garment pieces and produce prototypes using calico fabric (we can choose to construct our basic fitted garment either using block size 10 or 12). After producing the prototypes we can move on to the actual garment making by deciding on our chosen fabric pieces.
On Week 9, Ms Maria chose 3 looks, from my 15 designs, to be produced into a garment. Before starting on my pattern block, I had a one-to-one discussion with Mr Riza about how I was going to make each design. Below are my technical sketches, of my 3 chosen looks.
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| Technical Sketch: Outfit #1 |
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| Technical Sketch: Outfit #2 |
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| Technical Sketch: Outfit #3 |
In my one-to-one discussion with Mr Riza, I wasn't too sure about making the dress piece as I've never constructed a dress block before. Mr Riza showed me how to construct the dress step by step (below is his construction of how to make the dress piece). As for the jumpsuit (Outfit #3) Mr Riza mentioned that it was a similar process to the dress design instead of using the skirt block use the pants block for the jumpsuit design.
DRAFTING PROCESS:
I can now begin my pattern block for each of my outfits. I decided to use block size 12, in drafting my pattern block. For Outfit #1, it will be a curved sleeveless bodice paired with flared pants (extra cm added at the hemline to make it flared)
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| Outfit #1 [Pattern Block] |
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| Outfit #1 [Top Block] |
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| Outfit #1 [Pants Block] |
As for Outfit #2, it will be a V-neck bodice front and back with a long skirt. These two blocks will be combined later on during the sewing process.
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| Outfit #2 [Pattern Block] |
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| Outfit #2 [Top Block] |
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| Outfit #2 [Skirt Block] |
For Outfit #3, it will be a sleeveless bodice with low under armholes paired with shorts. These two blocks will be combined later on during the sewing process.
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| Outfit #3 [Pattern Block] |
After drafting these pattern blocks, I started cutting the calico fabric according to the pattern blocks for the tops first.
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| Outfit #1 Top Block [Calico Fabric] |
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| Outfit #2 Top Block [Calico Fabric] |
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| Outfit #3 Top Block [Calico Fabric] |
Later on, add the seam allowance and mark the wrong side of each piece.
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| Outlining the seam allowance + marking the wrong side |
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| Seam Allowance + Markings Top Blocks |
After marking the seam allowance and the wrong side of the fabric, I proceeded to sew each of them individually. Later on, I started to cut the calico fabric according to the bottom blocks.
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| Bottom Blocks [Calico Fabric Cut-Out] |
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| Bottom Blocks [Calico Fabric Cut-Out] |
TOILE PROCESS:
To begin the prototype process, I chose to do outfit #2 first for the prototyping. I attached the top and the bottom of the skirt together and sew one of the side seams of the skirt.
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| [Front View] Prototype Outfit #2 |
The dress couldn't fit into the model so Mr Riza suggested putting an opening (zipper) so that the dress can fit into the model.
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| [Back View] of Prototype Outfit #2 |
There was a slight problem with my skirt block as the side seam needed an extra cm in order for it to be similar to the bodice side seam. Mr Riza told me to edit my pattern block so that I won't make the same mistake on the final fabric for my garment.
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| Extra cm for Skirt Block |
Besides that, I needed to find where to cut open the knee slit. I made some markings of where I should place the knee slit at.
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| Marking on side seam [Skirt Block] |
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| Marking on hemline [Skirt Block] |
After marking the knee slit on the [long] skirt, I proceeded to cut where the knee slit will unravel in the dress design. At first, I wanted to make the slit appear at the front of the skirt but I've decided to slit both front and back. However, for the back, it will slit slightly lesser than the front.
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| Testing Knee-Slit [Skirt Block] |
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| Knee-Slit [View from the Back] |
Ms Maria told me that the slit was too high, and with a high slit, the crotch of the model can be seen so she suggested altering the slit about 10-11 inches from the waist so that the crotch can't be seen. I decided to go with 11 inches from the waist for the knee-slit.
Moving on to the next prototype, outfit #3. Firstly, I sew all the necessary darts for the bodice as well as the shoulder seam while as for the shorts I sewed the inner sides and crotch area except the outer sides of the shorts (same as for the bodice- side seam isn't sewed yet).
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| [Front View] Prototype Outfit #3 |
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| [Back View] Prototype Outfit #3 |
The reason for not sewing the sides was because I notice a slight error at the sides for the bodice as the shorts weren't aligned.
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| Side Seam isn't Aligned |
Mr Riza suggested curving the shorts slightly so that it makes a nice side finishing connecting the bodice and shorts together. I wanted to make the neckline looser a little bit because it looked a bit too tight. With the help of Mr Riza, he drew the new neckline for me, front and back. At the back of the garment piece, I planned to put a 22-inch zip opening so that the model can fit into the garment easily.
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| Neckline Adjustments [Front View] |
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| Neckline Adjustments [Back View] |
The neckline on Outfit #3 looked quite tight so I decided to loosen it by cutting the neckline lower.
Moving on to my last prototype which is Outfit #1, it consists of a shirt and pants making it a two-piece garment.
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| [Front View] Prototype Outfit #1 |
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| [Back View] Prototype Outfit #1 |
I notice the vest [top] neckline looks uncomfortable due to the extra curved edges so I decided to reduce that in my bodice block [Front] for Outfit #1.
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| Neckline Adjustments [Front] |
As for the pants, I decided to include a waistband and extra hook&eye fastening above the zip to make the flared pants fit to the model's waist.
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| [Back View] Waistband Needed |
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| [Front View] Waistband Needed |
FINAL GARMENT-MAKING:
I adjusted my pattern blocks [paper] so that I won't make any errors in making my final garment using the actual fabric. The first garment I made is Outfit #3 which is a one-piece jumpsuit consisting of a loose armhole but fitted top paired with shorts. I notice that the zip didn't reach the top completely, so I thought of inserting a hook&eye to connect it together so that the garment fits in the model completely.
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| Outfit #3- Without Lining [Front] |
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| Outfit #3-Without Lining [Back] |
I didn't sew the lining inside the garment, Outfit #3, yet because Ms Maria advised us to fit the garment on our models first before sewing the inter-lining. The inter-lining is to be sewed on the neckline, armhole, zipper, and hemline. Below is the inter-lining of Outfit #3, I left out the zip seam because it is to be sewed on the actual zipper attached to the garment.
Next, is Outfit #2. I adjusted the side seam error on the pattern block [paper] before starting to sew the dress. While sewing the dress I notice that the V neck was reaching below the waistline. I needed to adjust it so that it is above the waistline.
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| V Neck Dress Front [Before] |
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| V Neck Dress Back [Before] |
I made markings on the new waistline for the dress.
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| Waistline Newly Revised [Front] |
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| Waistline Newly Revised [Back] |
The dress also includes a long string that is wrapped around the waist area. I also made holders which hold the string in place so that it doesn't fall below the waist.
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| String + Holder Cutting on Actual Fabric |
After sewing the string + holder, I attach both of them to the dress to see how it looks.
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| Dress Complete [Front] |
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| Dress Complete [Back] |
After that, I proceeded in making Outfit #1. I made adjustments to the neckline making it less curvy and I added a waistband to the pants.
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| Outfit #1 [Front] |
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| Outfit #1 [Back] |
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| Loose Waistline on Pants |
The pants waistline was too wide making it loose. Previously in my technical drawing, I included a dart to the pants but I thought of making it looser so I removed it. But to make it fit the waist, Mr Riza told me to include the darts for the front and the back.
FITTING:
Before sewing the lining, Ms Maria & Mr Riza advised us to do the fitting on the models to see if the garment is fitted perfectly.
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Fitting on Model [Front]
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| Fitting on Model [Back] |
The top piece on the jumpsuit was quite loose on the model, so it needs to be tightened a little bit more.
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| Extra cm on the back dart |
The top fits the model perfectly whilst the pants are quite loose on the model. As Mr Riza suggested to me, is to include the front and back of the dart of the pants.
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| Fitting on Model [Front] |
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| Fitting on Model [Back] |
This V open neck dress design fits perfectly onto my model. The knee slit [right] was at a good height as you can't really see the crotch area much.
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| Fitting on Model [Front] |
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| Fitting on Model [Side] |
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| Fitting on Model [Back]
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FINISHING:
After adjusting the garments accordingly to the model's size, I moved on to sewing the lining onto the garments as well as adding finishings like the overlock and fastenings. Firstly, I sewed the lining for the top whilst the pants finishing is an overlock at the seams.
After completing the lining and overlock stitches, I sew the fastening for both the pants and top. I used the hook&eye as the final fastening for my top and pants.
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| Pants Fastening |
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| Top [Vest] Fastening |
Next for the V open neck dress design, I needed to sew the lining only for the top piece of the dress while the long skirt of the dress is using black colored overlock stitches to finish the seams. The knee slit is using a baby seam to finish the slit so that it looks neater.
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| Lining Top [Back] |
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| Lining Top [Front] |
Lastly, for the jumpsuit design, I need to sew the lining for the whole garment, top, and bottom. As for the zip, I had to do hand stitching to attach the lining to the zipper.
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| Lining Jumpsuit [Back] |
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| Lining Jumpsuit [Front] |
FINAL PHOTOSHOOT:
Here is the final outcome of the garments worn by the models.
Garment #1
A two-piece garment that consists of a somewhat vest top paired with waist-fitted flared pants. The two colors give a nice overall contrast to the garment, utilizing natural colors relating to nature/mother nature. Comfy wear and easy to slip on clothing that is stylish and basic. Also very much open and free as to no sleeves and the loose-fitting on the pants.
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| Front View |
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| Side View |
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| Back View |
Garment #2:
A one-piece garment, that is a V-open neck dress with a knee-slit at the right. The color gives a modern feel and classic look, as it is a natural color (relating to mother nature). The dress is easy to wear and the string supporting the dress is also easy to tie (not too complicated). It gives an overall elegant and sexy look which is appealing. Very much exposed and free as the garment has no sleeves and it is slit at the chest area as well as the knee area.
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| Front View |
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| Side View |
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| Back View |
Garment #3:
A one-piece garment, that is a jumpsuit consisting of two different colors that are contrasting to one another. The two colors give an outstanding contrast which is attractive as to one being light while the other is darker. The two combinations of colors give the outfit a modern and stylish yet basic look. Easy to slip on clothing as well as comfortable. It is open and free as there aren't any sleeves, a looser armhole as well as short pants. This design is open to all styles as it is casual not too feminine and not too tomboy.
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