PROJECT 1: BASIC GARMENT DRAPING

Week 1 (30/03/2022) - Week 4 (20/03/2022)

Faith Aimee Choong Jia Yi / 0345509

Garment Draping [DST64204]

Task 01: Basic Garment Draping

LECTURE [30/03]

In today's lecture, Mr Riza shared an introduction of what garment draping is and why it is essential to designers. The term 'draping' is when a design is created directly onto the mannequin or dress form. Draping is one of the essential skills for a fashion designer. The aim of draping skills is to strengthen original expression while also creating new forms or silhouettes.

French word for draping is moulage meaning to mold or sculpt.

When draping a garment it trains your eyes to recognize balance, symmetry and a graceful line. When draping the fabric must not be forcefully pulled instead it drapes or folds naturally creating a form and space. It also trains other skills involving your hands such as cutting, pinning, and joining complex curves.

Grainlines:

Lengthgrain- Called a straight grain. The symbol of the arrow is vertical.

Crossgrain- The symbol of the arrow is horizontal.

Bias Line- This line runs 45% to the lengthgrain. 

LECTURE [06/04]

In today's lecture, Mr Riza did a recap about the grainlines: lengthgrain, crossgrain and bias line. 

LENGTHGRAIN:

• Runs parallel to the selvage (fabric edge) 
• Least amount of stretch because warp threads are strongest and closest to one another.
• It drapes well and the threads are strong.

CROSSGRAIN:

• Runs across the fabric, from cut edge
• Has some stretch which is useful in making garments comfortable to wear and long-lasting.
• It can be used as stripes or borders. 

BIAS LINE:

• Runs at a 45-degree angle to the length and cross-grain.
• Has lots of stretches.
• Handle with care because the stretches can't be recovered.
• Used for beautiful bridal gowns which are cut in bias to look elegant or luxurious.

Mr Riza also reminded us to leave ease around the edges of the fabric we use to drape onto the mannequin. 2cm for CF/CB whilst the other edges are 5cm (top, bottom and sides). If the piece doesn't have CF/CB then 5cm will be the ease of measurement.

ASSIGNMENT 01

To understand more about garment draping we are going to make a simple dress form using the draping technique. The whole garment should be made out of Calico fabric with a lining.

PROCESS

We had to draft the dress form guidelines onto the mannequin. Bustline, neckline, armhole, centerline (back & front), hipline, waistline. The drape tape should be aligned next to the stitched line on the mannequin.

Front Guidelines

Back Guidelines

Later on we have to add the princess lines to the mannequin, but we had a choice between the classic or modern princess line. I chose to do the modern princess line.

Front Princess Line

Back Princess Line

When starting the drape for each piece, we had to measure the length and width (bigger) of each piece from the top. Leaving a 5cm ease for all sides except when it comes to the CF and CB, 2cm ease for the bottom.

Sample

Front Drape 1st Piece

I completed all my drape patterns for the front and back [symmetrical].

Front Drape [Completed]

Side Drape [Completed]

Back Drape [Completed]

Next, we moved on to draping the skirt. Mr Riza mentions that the length of the skirt should be 56cm. Similar drafting to the bodice except the hip-to-waist measurement should be marked onto the drafting piece.

After draping my skirt, I asked Mr Riza to check everything before I can move on to transfering my pattern onto mahjong paper.

FEEDBACK

By: Mr Riza

"The hip line isn't aligned with the front skirt pattern, this is because the edge isn't cut enough to make the curve at the hip."

Front Drape [Completed]

Back Drape [Completed]

Before transferring our draping pattern onto the mahjong paper, Mr Riza showed us a technical drawing of what the outcome would look like. The front piece would have no opening so the fabrics are all connected while the back has a 24-inch zip opening connected to the bodice and skirt.

Technical Sketch [Outcome Visual]

I transferred each pattern onto the mahjong paper starting with the bodice. I made sure to note that the front piece is connected with one another. I notice that a few measurements don't add up so I decided to re-check my measurements again.

Front

Back

After re-drafting my pattern pieces to the correct measurement, I cut out the pieces on Calico fabric and on my lining. 

Calico Cut-Out

For the skirt hemline, Mr Riza told us to make the lining skirt hemline 1cm rather than 5cm.

Lining Cut-Out

After cutting my Calico and lining pieces, I move on to assembling them together. I made the dress pieces with Calico first. As well as, sewing the 24 inch zipper to the two back pieces of the dress.

Front Pieces

Back Pieces

Back Piece [Calico]

Front Piece [Calico]

After sewing the pieces of Calico together, I did the same with the lining. Same procedure as the Calico when making the dress. When sewing the lining together Mr Riza told us to do a stay stitch so that the lining stays on the inside of the dress. Once both dresses are done, now we have to combine them together with lining on the inside and Calico on the outside. 

Lining Inside Dress

By making the skirt hemline 1cm for lining and 5cm for Calico fabric, we achieved this outcome. This makes the dress more clean and neat with the lining inside rather than at the edge.

Hemline Lining

When sewing the lining for the zipper, I could only sew it halfway. So the other half I had to handstitched it. 

Handstitched Lining

After completing the whole dress, I ironed the lining (so that it stays inside of the dress). I ironed the whole dress as well so that it looks neat.

*I forgot to take pictures of my progress when sewing the lining onto the dress.*

FINAL RESULTS

Front

Side

Back

FEEDBACK

By: Mr Riza

"The waist and hip area seems to be quite tight as the zip is about to break apart. The waistline at the back isn't aligned as well. But overall it is a good outcome."