Introduction to Pattern Drafting & Garment Making[DST63504]
Task 02: Basic Fitted Garment
PROJECT 02
To construct a basic fitted garment using the Pattern Block size 12. The samples should be produced using Calico fabric.
[COLLAR T-SHIRT]
In Week 4's lecture, we learned how to construct the collar pattern block as well as the finalized pattern for the bodice, sleeve and collar. In our final pattern block, we had to create the seam allowances, side seam & hem are 2cm, shoulder & armhole are 1cm and neck are 0.5cm. For the center front bodice block, we added an extra 2.5cm for the button construction. Mr Riza mentioned that when adding zippers or buttons to our garments, it is required to have a seam allowance of 2cm.
Sleeve & Bodice Final Pattern [Drafting]
Collar Drafting & Final Pattern [Drafting]
After completing the final pattern block, we had to cut them out and place them onto the Calico fabric where they will be traced and cut out into each piece.
Final Paper Pattern Block
Final Pattern Block on Calico Fabric
FEEDBACK
By: Mr Riza
"Front bodice shoulder was quite lengthy. So I redid my front bodice block including the waist dart manipulation."
Below are images of my final pattern block for the top, each piece shown in an individual image. My newly re-editted front bodice + waist dart manipulation is included below as well. I made sure to measure the neckline once again, just in case the measurement of my collar wasn't similiar to my front bodice. However, to my surprise the measurement was exactly the same.
Collar Final Pattern Block
Sleeve Final Pattern Block
Front Bodice Final Pattern Block
Back Bodice Final Pattern Block
Collar Final Pattern Block [Calico Fabric]
Sleeve Final Pattern Block [Calico Fabric]
Front Bodice Final Pattern Block [Calico Fabric]
Back Bodice Final Pattern Block [Calico Fabric]
In week 6's lecture, Mr Riza taught us how to construct the top garment using the cut-out pattern blocks on calico fabric. Before starting to sew all my final pattern blocks together, I made notches to indicate the seam allowances and also I marked the wrong and right sides for each pattern block.
GUIDELINE [CONSTRUCTING COLLAR TOP]
1. After making the notches, the first thing that we must do is sew all the darts before constructing anything else. Iron after sewing the darts to have a neat finishing.
Back Dart (Right Side)
Back Dart (Wrong Side)
Front Dart (Right Side)
Front Dart (Wrong Side)
2. Iron the 1cm and 2.5cm seam allowance at the buttonhole area so that it's folded inside the wrong side of the fabric. After that, do a top stitch on the folded buttonhole area for both sides.
Button Area Front
Button Area (Close-up)
Button Area Wrong Side (Close-up)
3. Sew the shoulder together (connecting the back and front bodice) according to the 1cm seam allowance and later ironing the seam allowance at the back and at the front.
Shoulder Seam Right Side
Shoulder Seam Wrong Side
4. Sew the sides together (connecting the back and front bodice) according to the 2cm seam allowance and later ironing the seam allowance at the back and at the front.
Side Seam Front
Side Seam Wrong Side (Close-up)
Side Seam Right Side (Close-up)
5. Mark which is your left and right sleeve. Firstly, sew the sides of the sleeve according to the 2cm seam allowance (sew on the wrong side). Later on iron both of the sleeves.
Sleeve Left & Right
6. Attach the bodice armhole to the sleeve and turn it to the wrong side. It's best to use pins when sewing this because it could be quite tricky. Sew a 360 degree around the armhole by attaching the 1cm sleeve crown seam allowance to the 1cm armhole seam allowance. Later on, iron the seam allowance and the sleeve and bodice.
Sleeve Attached to Bodice Front
Sleeve Attached to Bodice Back
Before making the collar, I drafted the collar pattern on a piece of paper. The first collar drafting, I did, was shorter than my neckline. So from my finished bodice piece, I measured the neckline and re-drafted a new collar pattern block.
Collar Drafting on Paper [Previous]
Collar Block on Calico Fabric [Previous]
Previous Collar
New Collar Pattern Block
7. Now we're going to attach the interface to the collar flap and stand. Cut the interface according to the collar flap and stand without the seam allowance (0.5cm). Iron the interface on one side of the collar flap and stand until it sticks onto the fabric.
Interface on Collar Stand + Flap
8. Sew the collar flap according to the 0.5cm seam allowance except for the bottom. Turn the collar flap inside out and iron it.
9. Place the collar stand and then flip the collar flap and place the bottom of the collar flap in between the top of the collar stand. Sew the 0.5cm seam allowance on the stacked collar flap and stand. Once done, iron the seam allowance and the collar stand. At the bottom of the collar stand with the interface iron the 0.5cm seam allowance so that it folds inwards.
10. Sew the collar stand lining (not the folded inwards) from one end of the shoulder to the other. Iron the collar lining and the seam allowance 0.5cm. Later on, sew the top of the collar stand onto the bottom lining with the folded seam allowance using the Edge Stitch technique.
Collar Lining Attached to Bodice (Front)
Collar Lining (Back)
Collar Lining (Back) Attached to Bodice
11. Mr Riza told us to complete the top by doing hand-stitching on the hemline. Fold the hemline 1cm and fold another 1cm on top. Do this for the collared shirt and the sleeve hemline.
Below is step-by-step video progress, of how I construct my collar t-shirt. [I didn't film the last part, attaching the collar stand together].
[PENCIL SKIRT]
In Week 7's lecture, Mr Riza taught us how to construct a pencil skirt with a waistband. For the final pattern block for the skirt, we have to create a 2cm seam allowance on the side curve of the skirt, a 1cm seam on the waist, and the hemline has a 5cm seam allowance. Mr Riza mentioned that we will be sewing a zipper at the back of the skirt which is why we have to include an extra 2cm seam allowance for the zip.
As I was constructing my skirt block on mahjong paper, I accidentally added an extra 2cm seam allowance on the center front of the skirt and the center back of the skirt along with the zip seam allowance. Below are the redrafted pattern blocks of my skirt on paper and on calico fabric (reducing the extra seam allowance I added previously).
Skirt Final Pattern Block [Drafting]
Final Pattern Block on Calico Fabric
GUIDELINE [CONSTRUCTING PENCIL SKIRT]
1. First things first, before sewing the skirt, we need to sew all the darts. After sewing the dart, you'll need to iron the seam on the wrong side.
Front Dart (Right Side)
Front Dart (Wrong Side)
Back Dart (Right Side)
Back Dart (Wrong Side)
2. Sew the zip onto the 2cm seam allowance, that we drafted at the center back of the skirt. After sewing the zip using the invisible footer, we have to close the seam so that it gives a neat finishing.
Open Zipper
Close Zipper
Zipper Seam
3. Sew the side seams by 2cm seam allowance. After sewing the sides, iron the seam on the wrong side and on the right side as well.
Front of Skirt (Side Seam Attached-Right Side)
Back of Skirt (Side Seam Attached-Right Side)
Side Seam Attached (Wrong Side)
Before proceeding, I drafted the waistband pattern block onto a piece of paper with a seam allowance of 1cm at the sides and an extra 5cm for the ends of the waistband. We also needed an interface for the waistband, so I measured an inch (width) and the measurement of my waist plus 2.5cm (length), and cut it out.
Waistband Drafting
4. Now it's time to attach the waistband to the skirt. Firstly, sew the waistband, 1cm seam allowance, onto the lining of the waistline on the skirt. Then place the interface on the seam allowance and sew right in the center of the seam (almost like a topstitch). After that, iron the interface onto the waistband, so that it will be
Interface + Waistband Attached to Waistline of Skirt
Close-up on Interface + Waistband Attached to Waistline of Skirt
5. Now we are going to close up the waist. Before that, sew the extra 5cm seam allowance along the interfaced lining then snip about 0.5cm of fabric (this will be the sides of the waistband).After that fold the top inch of the waistband to cover the interface and fold the 1cm seam allowance inside. Do an edge stitch to attach the waistband together.
Waistband Attached Together (Front of Skirt)
Waistband Attached Together (Back of Skirt)
6. Lastly, we are supposed to complete the skirt by doing hand-stitching on the hemline. Since the hemline we drafted had an extra 5cm seam allowance, Mr Riza told us to fold the 1cm seam allowance then fold the remaining 4cm seam allowance on top and iron it.
Hemline Skirt (Outer)
Hemline Skirt (Inner)
SUBMISSION:
COLLAR T-SHIRT
Collar T-Shirt
Front [Full]
Back [Full]
Collar Down [Front Bodice]
Collar Down [Back Bodice]
Collar Up [Front Bodice]
Collar Up [Back Bodice]
Collar Close-up
PENCIL SKIRT
Pencil Skirt
Front of Skirt
Back of Skirt
Close-up on Waistband
Close-up on Zipper
REFLECTION
This assignment was exhausting but I'm very proud to see the final outcome of it. Since this was my first time making an actual garment, it was quite nerve-racking and I've made a lot of mistakes during this assignment. However, from my mistakes, I came to realize how much effort it takes to make a garment so perfect for an individual to wear. The tutorials on making the bodice and skirt were quite easy at first but when it came to the detailing part like the collar and waistband it was a bit tricky to follow. Overall I'm happy to see the final outcome of the collared shirt and pencil skirt and I grasped the understanding of how to make both pieces, especially on how crucial it was to include the seam allowance.
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